The buckle was a common motif in Victorian jewelry as it symbolized eternity. The idea of one end being threaded into the other, creating a never-ending circle, was a powerful justification of its meaning. When worn, or gifted, it represented the beautiful ideas of unending love, fidelity, and strength. This wonderful piece of Victorian tradition is smothered with romantic symbolism. The buckle was popularized by Queen Victoria, and the design carried over into the Edwardian Era. Today, it remains as a timeless motif of romance.
This antique Edwardian ruby and diamond gold buckle ring was handcrafted in Chester, England, in 1908. It bears an engraved buckle motif with two dark pink rubies and a beautiful diamond, set in 18 karat gold. The Old European cut diamond measures 1.5 mm in diameter and .8 mm in depth, weighing approximately .01 carats. Both of the round rubies measure 2 x 2 x 1.2 mm and together weigh a total of approximately .08 carats. The ring face measures 6.5 x 18 x 2.7 mm off the finger with a band width of 5 mm at the back and is a size 8.25. This buckle ring has been fully hallmarked. It bears the crown mark for England, the gold purity mark, “18”, the wheat sheaves mark for Chester, and the date letter, “H”.
The buckle motif dates to the sixteenth century when it was often called a ‘garter’. The buckle signifies the unbreakable strength of loyal virtue and memory forever. Sometimes, it’s seen as a motif on memorial jewelry.
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