Two grasshoppers face one another across a spray of stylized leaves, their long legs and delicate wings caught mid-motion in a scene that feels both playful and strangely majestic. At their center, brilliant cabochons of peacock glass gleam with shifting blue and green fire, mimicking the iridescence of beetle wings that so captivated jewelers of the fin de siècle. This is jewelry at its most imaginative, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary through the lens of Art Nouveau’s fascination with nature.

French in origin and attributed to the celebrated Piel Frères workshop, this large bronze buckle was crafted around 1900. Three shimmering peacock glass cabochons measure 10 mm, 7.5 x 11 mm, and 7 x 10.7 mm. The overall buckle measures 77 mm north to south, 98 mm across, and 13 mm deep, with a substantial weight of 54.36 grams. While unmarked, the combination of motif, craftsmanship, and materials are characteristic of Piel Frères’ inventive style.

Rare and dramatic, this buckle was made to draw the eye and spark conversation. It is a wearable work of art that still speaks of the era when jewelry was at once ornament, story, and spectacle. This impressive piece would work well as a sash buckle as it was intended, but could also be worn around the neck or wrist on a wide ribbon.

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Item ID: BE0824059VS